HerShade
Episode 12 · Dear Brown Girl
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Peach or Orange?
The Answer Depends on Your Depth.
Dear Brown Girl,

This is the corrector question that most tutorials get wrong, even the ones specifically written for Indian skin.

peach
Peach
Use for
Very light through medium
Blue-purple under-eye cast
orange
Orange
Use for
Medium-tan through very deep
Brown-black under-eye cast
The short answer is simple. But the reason matters, because understanding it means you will never get this wrong again.
Lighter skin depths
Under-eye pulls blue-purple
Blue-purple cast blood vessels visible through thin skin peach fixes this
The blood vessels beneath lighter skin show through as a blue-purple tone. Peach sits opposite blue-purple on the colour wheel and neutralises it cleanly.
Deeper skin depths
Under-eye pulls brown-black
Brown-black cast dense melanin peach = too light orange fixes this
Deeper skin has denser melanin in the under-eye zone. The darkness pulls brown-black, not blue-purple. Peach lacks the pigmentation to cancel it. Orange does.

Under-eye darkness has colour. On lighter skin, it tends to pull blue-purple, from the blood vessels beneath thin skin showing through. Peach, which sits opposite blue-purple on the colour wheel, neutralises it. On deeper skin, the melanin is denser and the tone pulls more brown-black than blue-purple. Peach does not have enough pigmentation to cancel this. Orange does.

The switch point: roughly medium-tan
V.Light Light Lt.Med Medium Med.Tan Tan Deep V.Deep Use peach Use orange switch here

The depth at which you switch from peach to orange is roughly medium-tan. If you are very light through medium, start with peach. If you are medium-tan through very deep, start with orange.

01
Common mistake
Applying too much corrector
too thick
A corrector should be a thin, targeted layer, just enough to neutralise. You are not replacing the concealer. You are preparing the canvas for it. Apply, blend until invisible, then apply your concealer on top.
Too much corrector cakey, muddy buildup vs Thin corrector layer blends in, invisible concealer on top
02
Common mistake
Choosing a corrector that is too bright
shows through
A neon orange corrector on deep skin will show through the concealer. Look for a terracotta or burnt orange: deep enough to neutralise, muted enough to disappear under concealer.
Neon orange
Avoid
Too bright, shows through concealer on deep skin
True orange
Use with care
Works for medium-tan, use a very thin layer
Terracotta
Ideal
Muted enough to disappear under concealer
Burnt orange
Ideal
Best for tan through very deep depths

Dear Brown Girl, peach was not wrong for everyone. It was just wrong for you.

Peach was not wrong for everyone.
It was just wrong for you.
HerShade maps correctors to your depth so you never have to guess again.
hershade.com